These are a not so recent pair of trousers. I must admit that they are a completely dumb project to be showing off in the middle of winter. In my defence, I had this idea in Feb 2015, when Liberty was having an online sale and triple points offer on their fabric (which would have actually made them an ideal summer project).
The outer is their classic Tana Lawn in the Curiouser & Curiouser print. I think it was part of the Alice in Wonderland series. Perfect for warm weather. Except that I made these in November 2015 and wore them to the office Christmas party.
The inspiration for these trousers was to develop my own spin on the bright, floral print trousers that seem to be on the streets these days. I bought the fabric first with the intention of making trousers, but hit a roadblock when trying to decide how they would look. I wanted to steer clear of cigarette, palazzo and hareem/hippy styles so a fairly standard suit trouser would work well. With trousers like these you can't really play with cut/style etc before they become very outlandish. The lawn doesn't have any stretch so I also needed to choose a style would let me move while wearing them (i.e. not skin tight). The pattern is Burda 04/2013 #103 Pleated Pants, which is actually the trouser complement to a jacket I made a while ago (version 1, version 2).
Unexpectedly, these have become a hit because they fit well under motorbike trousers, take up close to zero luggage space, are super comfy and can be thrown on over leggings after tap class. Like joggers/trackies. Except they're multicoloured. And they're actually dress trousers in disguise.
They're lined with a yellow cotton muslin (originally destined for another project) from Cloth House, The pocket lining is black/fuschia remnants from Misan Textiles. The fusible interfacing is from MacCulloch & Wallis. It's a veritable Soho party!
I dithered about making these for a long time because the fabric was expensive and it was so tough to see a a good result in my head. I was also wary of adornments and extras. It was important to strike the right balance of formality (darts not yokes, welt pockets not patch pockets, zip fly but with discreet buttons) and flair, but the whole thing became quite daunting.
(Advance warning: I'm about to wax lyrical about tap again)
Sometimes daunting is a good thing, you need to stare the fear in the eye and make tiny steps towards the finishing line. Gradually it'll subside and you have will have won a battle. Sometimes you throw up your hands and say "not today", come back in 6 months. I've done that plenty of times in sewing - some things have gone well and some ended up as duds, but they were done and I was proud (or just relieved). I threw my hands up a couple of times on this project too, which is why they were finished in November and not March.
One of the most important parts of this kind of process - making, learning, challenging yourself and trying things - is to stop and say "wouldn't it be awesome if...". Or have someone to do it for you, who will make you do it anyway. I think these trousers are a means of paying respect to all the people - especially in the tap world - who are teachers, motivators, coaches, artists, athletes, enthusiasts and role models. They are major inspirations for me and for fellow sufferers of "Royally Screwing It Up 95% Of The Time" Syndrome. Without them saying things like "Next we're gonna do X, and you know what? It's gonna be awesome!" every 3 minutes in class, we wouldn't keep trying.
I'm working on it though, I try to wear these trousers as a reminder - the work you do between walking away from a challenge, and coming back to it 6 months later is important, don't forget it.
K x
Showing posts with label Liberty. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Liberty. Show all posts
Friday, 4 November 2016
Wednesday, 29 July 2015
Kaisla Toil
How do you pronounce Kaisla?
Did you spot the Nikola Tesla pun?
Anyway today I have a guts post for you. This might be the best thing I've EVER made and I really want to tell you all about it about it. Anyone who's come across this blazer in recentweeks months will have seen me model it like a peacock and fluff my stitchy tailfeathers.
My first blazer was a bit dodgy, the second was a proper blowout, the third was a big step in the right direction, this one's actually petty damn good!
It's possibly my magnum opus of sewing. I literally don't think I can get any better than this blazer. It's just perfect. Brilliant. Excellence in wool. I was so astonished by how this blazer turned out that I should basically quit now. Everything else will pale in comparison to this blazer.
Sorry T.Rex, I made your baby shower gifts immediately after this. Please do let them get covered in muck and baby spew because there's much better stuff I can do for the kiddos.
This is the Kaisla Blazer from Named Patterns, from the Finn's trendy first collection. This was back when apparently they had weird bugs and sizing issues. Don't ask why I haven't looked at anything in the newer collections - this one stuck and I've been eyeballing it for a long time.
The main attractive point on the Kaisla was that there was a lapel, but no massive collar. I'm a bit wary of big collars at the moment - I can't handly the fitting challenge, and they just seem to be too stuffy and bulky. You see, I just needed something LIGHTER. I'm a skinny, bony, blithering little weed and this is one of the jacket styles that looked like it might work.
Anything you might want to read on the pattern is over on Pattern Review
Fit adjustments were made around the shoulder and across the back. B helped come up with a genius alteration, which will probably merit its own post over the summer. I scrapped the lining from the pattern and redrew it. I also added a lining to the pockets and split the sleeve lining so there's a contrast if I roll up the sleeves.
Fabric? Oh, it's high society baby
Outer - Liberty Wool Twill (from Mandors in Edinburgh)
Contrast Lining - Liberty Tana Lawn (from Mandors in Edinburgh?)
Sleeve Lining - Bemberg (Macculloch & Wallis)
This was my first time using shoulder pads and I am a complete convert. These doodads totally change how the jacket hangs and how it stands up to wear. Never again will they be forsaken in a jacket. This was also my first time fusing in all the sensible places. Don't ask me why I didn't before, let's chalk it up to experimentation and experience. You guys - this following instructions lark has its advantages. This thing actually has structure!
I spent a lot of time not rushing it, which is hard. This was a real exercise in patience. No matter how simple a blazer is - it will always take ages. It's got over 40 pieces once you've got the lining included. It just takes ages to sew. You dither between excitement to wear it, and abject despair because you want it finished.
B's started telling me off for doing a slack job. Sometimes you need someone telling you off - you know...someone who will notice if you've done a bad job. On the flip side, they will also you shower you with praise and treat you like a monarch if you do a good job. Perhaps they will buy you an ice cream at the weekend too (does B read this?)...
Anyway, I love this jacket. I'm so proud of doing a good job. The print doesn't respond well to photos, and I'm still too lazy to organise an actual shoot so the next best idea was to take a series of bathroom selfies and steal other people's photos of it in the wild. It really is great.
Kudos to B and Pink Panther for the non-selfies.
That's it for now...
K
Did you spot the Nikola Tesla pun?
Anyway today I have a guts post for you. This might be the best thing I've EVER made and I really want to tell you all about it about it. Anyone who's come across this blazer in recent
My first blazer was a bit dodgy, the second was a proper blowout, the third was a big step in the right direction, this one's actually petty damn good!
It's possibly my magnum opus of sewing. I literally don't think I can get any better than this blazer. It's just perfect. Brilliant. Excellence in wool. I was so astonished by how this blazer turned out that I should basically quit now. Everything else will pale in comparison to this blazer.
Sorry T.Rex, I made your baby shower gifts immediately after this. Please do let them get covered in muck and baby spew because there's much better stuff I can do for the kiddos.
This is the Kaisla Blazer from Named Patterns, from the Finn's trendy first collection. This was back when apparently they had weird bugs and sizing issues. Don't ask why I haven't looked at anything in the newer collections - this one stuck and I've been eyeballing it for a long time.
The main attractive point on the Kaisla was that there was a lapel, but no massive collar. I'm a bit wary of big collars at the moment - I can't handly the fitting challenge, and they just seem to be too stuffy and bulky. You see, I just needed something LIGHTER. I'm a skinny, bony, blithering little weed and this is one of the jacket styles that looked like it might work.
Anything you might want to read on the pattern is over on Pattern Review
Fit adjustments were made around the shoulder and across the back. B helped come up with a genius alteration, which will probably merit its own post over the summer. I scrapped the lining from the pattern and redrew it. I also added a lining to the pockets and split the sleeve lining so there's a contrast if I roll up the sleeves.
Fabric? Oh, it's high society baby
Outer - Liberty Wool Twill (from Mandors in Edinburgh)
Contrast Lining - Liberty Tana Lawn (from Mandors in Edinburgh?)
Sleeve Lining - Bemberg (Macculloch & Wallis)
This was my first time using shoulder pads and I am a complete convert. These doodads totally change how the jacket hangs and how it stands up to wear. Never again will they be forsaken in a jacket. This was also my first time fusing in all the sensible places. Don't ask me why I didn't before, let's chalk it up to experimentation and experience. You guys - this following instructions lark has its advantages. This thing actually has structure!
I spent a lot of time not rushing it, which is hard. This was a real exercise in patience. No matter how simple a blazer is - it will always take ages. It's got over 40 pieces once you've got the lining included. It just takes ages to sew. You dither between excitement to wear it, and abject despair because you want it finished.
B's started telling me off for doing a slack job. Sometimes you need someone telling you off - you know...someone who will notice if you've done a bad job. On the flip side, they will also you shower you with praise and treat you like a monarch if you do a good job. Perhaps they will buy you an ice cream at the weekend too (does B read this?)...
Anyway, I love this jacket. I'm so proud of doing a good job. The print doesn't respond well to photos, and I'm still too lazy to organise an actual shoot so the next best idea was to take a series of bathroom selfies and steal other people's photos of it in the wild. It really is great.
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| Paired with Boomerang |
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| Paired with Lizzie |
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| In the Ashmolean |
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| On the tube paired with my Matthew Williamson dress |
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| Trying to look cool at the London Tap Jam |
| Paired with B's clothes, including Jedediah trousers |
| Total bloody hipster |
That's it for now...
K
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