Welcome to my newest Kaisla jacket
Why?I've forgotten my original rationale, so let's just say that I really like jackets. I started actually sewing this in Jan 2018 because I was sick of having this sat unfinished for so long. I've used up almost all of the scraps from my original cutting out by now. I just couldn't understand why that meant the original garment still hadn't been made.
This is my second version of Named Patterns' Kaisla Blazer. I really like the slim nature of the jacket and the fact that there are lapels without too much bulk around the neck and shoulders. It is a really good office-appropriate pattern.
As far as blazers go...it's not too difficult either. Sure, it's not as simple as the BHL Victoria but it is quite simple in its design lines. Also, because of its slimline nature, you only really need shoulder pads and fusible interfacing for the structure. Yay for speed tailoring! No optional horse canvas or sleeve heads!
In terms of modifications, 2015-Katrina decided that she wanted functional sleeve vents and created a pattern. She even cut out all the pattern pieces for this option. 2018 Katrina was not up for that. I think they'll show up on a different project instead.
I again used extra pieces on the sleeve lining so that rolled up sleeves will match the body lining. I again used my modified lining pieces rather than the originals in the pattern.
|A spot of pocket detail.|
The FabricThis may be one of my most expensive fabrics ever. The wool was £33/m from MacCulloch & Wallis. I got it in 2014, after much debate, and have long forgotten the composition. I think it's wool, a bit of viscose and a hint of elastane. I don't remember if I bought it felted or if that was an effect of washing. The right side and the wrong side are very subtly different, which was a bit a nightmare for construction. Still, the main point is that it's very warm.
The dotty lining is a silk twill from Mood Fabrics. The interfacing and shoulder pads are also from MacCulloch & Wallis.
The ConstructionLesson learned: I should never leave something so long again without actually sewing it up. I just wanted the darn thing done. With that in mind, I thought I could cut some corners and take account of the fabric loft by sewing a smaller seam allowance. Surprise, surprise that didn't come out great and I spent just as long trimming and restitching it. The original shoulder pads were pretty weedy and couldn't handle the (unexpectedly) oversized jacket.
I didn't bother to mark the pocket placement and that now feels like a mistake.
The fabrics press well and do hold their shape but the lapels don't lie flat on my chest and that's not stopping things bouncing out of position or being pressed into a new one. I keep accidentally pressing one lapel flat because of the way I sit when this is hanging on the back of my chair.
In all, I think this was a bad pairing of outer fabric and pattern. I am so in love with my first Kaisla but this one gave me many many problems The original plan of how I'd wear it doesn't match the reality. We were in mid-winter when I finished it and this jacket doesn't really lend itself well to the concept of "bundling up". This looked almost like the Honetone Coat...but it wasn't quite right.
I tried to live with this jacket and it sat in my wardrobe for a few weeks (nominally finished) before I pulled it out again for fixing. One of the big issues seemed to be a fitting or balance problem. This is really weird and wasn't an issue in my first version. I wonder if I had the pattern pieces mixed up. Anyway, I was really unhappy with this issue:
The issues: Shoulders collapsing a bit, sitting far past my shoulder point, vent not lying flat and loads of excess fabric at the back, dipping at the sides. I'm not pushing anything backwards here, it's all just sitting funny. See:
At first I thought this might be an exaggerated case of sloping shoulders, but I tried the jacket on the mannequin (whose shoulders are a bit more square) and added another set of 1" shoulder pads on me. Neither solved the issue.
|Here I am wearing 2x sets of shoulder pads to see if it'll make a difference|
|2x sets of shoulder pads on the mannequin|
Secondly, I took a small amount of width out of the CB seam to try to bring the shoulders more upright (actually on my shoulders instead of overhanging). Thirdly, I unpicked the side seams and underarms and tilted the side back panel - changing the direction of the grain and trying to re-balance the back. Lastly, I rehemmed it so that it would be more even all the way around.
(Apologies for the quality of these photos...just don't ask)
|Thr shoulder is still collapsing, but at least the back looks a little better|
It's not perfect but I'll take it.