Tuesday, 21 January 2014

A note on women's tailoring...

Sewing Artistry has been arguing a lot about good trouser fit for women recently. It made me wonder if proper tailoring (suits specifically) aren't really the most flattering dress option for women? Is the actual garment infrastructure not cut out ('scuse the pun) for a big proportion of women?

To put it simply, a jacket front on a guy must curve over his chest in a smooth way. Canvas and fusing give a long steady curve with a lot of structure, they seem to work well for that sort of shape. But on most women those curves are very exaggerated, and definitely not consistent. Can the structural elements of a tailored jacket really support work with/support/flatter a big shoulder/bust/hip ratio? What is a good fitting suit jacket for curvier women?

In any case, here's a recent project: Burda 04/2013 #113 Pencil Capris, lengthened to be ankle-ish length. Made for the office!

They're black trousers...whaddya want?
There was a bit of an adjustment to allow more space at the hip, though the fabric sags very easily which is a shame. I may yet take them apart to add more structure and possibly some belt loops.

The most interesting interesting point about these trousers? The button fly!

It's a button-fly!


Of course you see
In essence, I was too cheap to buy a zip for a zipper fly so drafted a button fly for the CF seam. It took quite a lot of figuring out, but I basically copied PatternCutter206's tutorial for a hidden button placket and it seemed to work out quite well!

That's it for these, take care


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