Tuesday, 22 March 2016

New Tap Shoes!

Hey guys,

Look at my beautiful snazzy new shoes! Ain't nobody else got these shoes!

Shows pair of tap shoes with design detail, posing on a table

They are Ruben Sanchez dark green suede (#37) and terracotta nobuk (#7).

I wanted to share them because of the laser engraving. I got to customise the flat pattern pieces before they were sewn up. Talk about bespoke!

Shows generic flat pattern pieces for tap shoe

It took a long time to get my skills up to scratch for this etching - narrowing down from about 7 designs and paring back the eccentricities. Obviously the final product looked different to what I had been imagining early in the design. That's pretty standard though for makers, isn't it?

The possibilities were endless - far too easy to go overboard. In the end I tried to keep it simple and worked some crazy Inkscape magic.

Completed engraved accent pieces, ready for assembly

Image shows flat pattern pieces ready for assembly

My left foot has some "speed shading" too, so that my foot can move really fast - because the design will never look like it's in focus. Speed shading (allow Youtube to explain). Yes. Deliberate.

Pair of tap shoes lying on the floor

one tap shoe and my protective shoe bag
And my shoe bag of course


Thursday, 10 March 2016

Learning About Laser Cutting

Somehow someone allowed me access to a hackspace laser cutter - generally I'm surprised when anyone leaves me in charge of something that "vaporises" other materials, and that has a realistic risk of being on fire. But, rarely one to reject a challenge/opportunity when it comes along, I thought it would be fun to incorporate something totally new into some projects.

Hole burnt in the middle of a metal honeycomb grid
Not my fire damage, not my problem!

A quick pre-script note: there's not really any sewing in this post. I've not yet put any textiles under the laser, though it is on my list. I may also use the technology to cut/etch buttons or prepare designs for screen printing in the future. Not right now.

Principles of Using a Laser Cutter

The setup I have access to is like an elaborate printer. I have an image/design on a computer and send it to print, a print preview-style programme launches and I use it to set power, speed, depth and check focus/alignment. Fire up the cutter, do the important safety things and press go.

If you're lucky, it'll be quick and will look awesome. Normally it'll be slow any may look a bit burnt around the edges. Enter the importance of tweaking.

The first step was learning to draw something that the cutter would understand. Inkscape and Youtube are your best tools, closely followed by Google for specific queries. Anything talking about drawing for CNCs will also be relevant.

Now, our machines cut from CorelDraw, not from Inkscape. I learned Inkscape because it was free and open soruce. No really urgent need to get Corel because the computer linked to the laser cutter had it.

After drawing I needed to spend some time in Corel making something properly print approrpriate. I was flummoxed by a few unexpected results when going from Inkscape to CorelDraw for laser cutting. The notes below are mostly for my own benefit, but hopefully they'll prove useful to someone else.

  • CorelDraw won't import my InkScape SVG correctly. Try saving and importing as a plain SVG. Otherwise try the usual on/off approach to fixing technology. Still stuck? Not sure, try something else!
  • My imported file looks a bit crazy compared to the original. Man up, unlock, ungroup and fix it. 
  • My image is rastering when I thought I'd done all of the vector stuff properly. Aha, there are 4 solutions to this:
  1. Check all your curves are no fill, with stroke as hairline thickness
  2. Check CorelDraw's primary colour mode for this document. The cutter is RGB, Corel's default is usually CMYK. You can fix this in the Options menus (ctrl+j or Tools>Options)
  3. Something screwy happened, maybe during the import process. Create a new CorelDraw document (in RGB) and just copy+paste objects to the new document
  4. Check all the vector paths are ungrouped and combined. For some reason this makes the curves less confusing for the cutter.
  • I drew everything in black, what colours am I supposed to use? Reds = vector cut; Blues = vector etch; Greens = raster etch. 
Anyway, I thought it'd be nice to show off my first few projects (which probably makes them suitable for complete beginners)

Project 1: Laser Ply Puzzle Cubes

Cuboid. I've had some generic puzzle cubes in 8mm foam for a very long time. I drew some new pieces in Inkscape (admittedly with a lot of help from this puzzle solving software

cutting puzzle pieces

Completed and assembled puzzle cube

Project 2: Laser Cut Festive Paper Snowflakes

The first one I drew freehand, and actually was one of the best to cut in a range of sizes. For all other designs, I took a segment of a shape, then mirrored/rotated it 6 or 12 times. It was when I was first learning about adding and moving nodes. 

Laser cutter in motion, showing completed snowflakes

Laser cutter in motion, showing incomplete snowflakes

When I was making these, another hackspace member approached and said "you know you can fold paper and cut these out by hand, right?". Cheeky bugger.

A variety of snowflake shapes

Project 3: Custom Tap Leathers

I traced the pattern pieces by hand to get a digital copy into the computer. I trialed various designs and print placements - using the trace bitmap feature to get a basic line drawing. Most of my time on this was spent refining the prints/designs - there were about 7 I was keen on so wanted to try them all on the pattern piece for practice.

image shows pattern pieces with vine/floral design on accents

Image shows a herringbone design on shoe pattern pieces

About 3 designs made it on to the test material.

This was the first project where I had to align the cutter with a target. I etched the pattern pieces on to paper taped to the bed, then taped down the pieces in the correct positions. I varied the power, speed and amount of masking tape over several passes to get things looking clean.

Textile is held in the correct position using masking tape

Shows the leather immediately after etching - leather displays a floral/vine pattern

Oh, and this smells like popcorn straight out of the machine!

Image shows finished pieces ready for assembly as a tap shoe

Shows all shoe pieces flat, ready for assembly

So that's that. What's next?


Monday, 7 March 2016

Newcastle Revisited

Many moons ago I made myself a Newcastle Cardigan which B has since pilfered for himself. Over time I've noticed some flaws I'd like to correct and B has mentioned that he'd like a more conservative version he can wear around town. Instead of developing a new pattern, I thought it'd be good to revisit the Newcastle and fix it up.

Thread Theory Newcastle Cardigan

My two major changes were to add a full lining and to switch the hem out for a band. I sized up to an M, lengthened slightly, used the small collar and shoulder yoke from the pattern. Overall, I think it looks great but it's a bit difficult to photograph accurately.

navy shawl collar jacket with tan contrasts

fluffy lining of a men's jacket
It's so fluffy!

Navy and tan lycra/spandex jersey: Plush Addict
Shaggy lining: Plush Addict
Sleeve Lining: Goldhawk Road
Interfacing and buttons: MacCulloch & Wallis

All the jersey innards are finished cleanly, behind the properly bagged lining. I switched up the construction order of the cuffs to make it easier to sew, and to look neater. The shaggy lining was a horror to work with - under the presser foot there was absolutely no problem, I overcast the raw edges as well for neatness. The cutting/handling was dreadful, it was like a fluffy infestation. I was cleaning grey fluff off myself and the flat for days after it was packed away. Even B was covered in the stuff, and this was a secret project!

shaggy plush fabric

Must keep a vacuum cleaner handy next time. A note about this shaggy stuff compared to regular minky/cuddlesoft fabric: you can't sweep it, it gets stuck in your eyes and is more prone to flyaway. I used regular minky/cuddlesoft for the red teddy bear in my earlier post and really enjoyed it. It still made a mess but it was pretty easy to handle.

Thread Theory Newcastle Cardigan

The buttons are beautiful and I have a few going spare, the fusible interfacing is exquisite. I got a MacCulloch & Wallis staff recommendation and am SO glad they know their stuff. I spent a long time fawning over their buttons as well - the plan is to go on a bit of a button spree in the near future. You might also be able to see the buttonholes in this picture - they were stitched in a very slightly lighter thread to give a bit of interest to the front.

If I make the Newcastle again, I may consider adding shoulder pads, as it can get quite heavy, and it may hang better off a man's shoulders. I'm not sure what to make of the fit. It seems fine enough, but the bodice may be too long. B has complained it's a bit too tight at the hips - so lengthening it was maybe a bad idea.

Incidentally, B is modelling this with some of his other Christmas presents - namely handmade gloves, hat and cowl from his sister, who is an absolute yarn virtuoso. These pieces are beautiful and expertly made

man sat by pond

Yes, the bag you see is my version of Simplicity 2358 from Christmas 2013.

That's about it, I hope B likes it and it sees a lot of good use.

man walking beside pond


Photos courtesy of Rachel Sheridan