Showing posts with label welt pockets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label welt pockets. Show all posts

Wednesday, 14 December 2016

Unsung workhorses

These 2 pairs of trousers have been in almost constant use since I finished them nearly a year ago. So quick was the transition from presser foot to my actual legs, I don't think they got any construction shots at all.

The fabrics came from Ditto (grey brushed cotton) and Misan's Clearance Basement of Wonder (navy synthetic - it's breathable and slightly hydrophobic). All the facings and pockets were scraps and stash. I may have scrounged a hook and bar off B. It's hard to remember.

Anyway, it's some pairs of trousers. We've done trousers up to the eyeballs now. What's new?

Well there was no pattern. They're a RTW copy. The original was a worn out pair of linen trousers I got when I started trying to get my first jobs and internships. The Christmas sale at Next, or something like that. I was so attached to the originals (both affection and necessity because I couldn't afford anything else) that I patched the knee when I fell and ripped it open on a train platform, coloured in bleach stains with a sharpie and only gave up when the bum cheeks wore through.

The fit was good though. The lovely, fat, interfaced waistband meant that it wasn't going anywhere. Good pockets and ready-made hanger appeal.


To copy, I followed some of the things I'd learned in Kenneth King's Jeanius course, but also cut the trousers into flat pieces. This helped with copying the sneaky darts at the back which are hiding above the welt pockets.

I rarely practice a technique before attempting it on the actual garment. It's a bad habit that I should try to break. These aren't the best welts I've ever done (my money is on this pair) and they could look a lot better. My hope is that no one is actually looking.




Otherwise, I love these trousers. Look at the fit, look at the wonderful facings and pockets. I'm really pleased with how they have become unremarkable workhorses, it's one of the best things about making stuff.

Front

Side

Back


K x

Friday, 4 November 2016

Curiouser & Curiouser - Dumb projects for winter

These are a not so recent pair of trousers. I must admit that they are a completely dumb project to be showing off in the middle of winter. In my defence, I had this idea in Feb 2015, when Liberty was having an online sale and triple points offer on their fabric (which would have actually made them an ideal summer project).



The outer is their classic Tana Lawn in the Curiouser & Curiouser print. I think it was part of the Alice in Wonderland series. Perfect for warm weather. Except that I made these in November 2015 and wore them to the office Christmas party.



The inspiration for these trousers was to develop my own spin on the bright, floral print trousers that seem to be on the streets these days. I bought the fabric first with the intention of making trousers, but hit a roadblock when trying to decide how they would look. I wanted to steer clear of cigarette, palazzo and hareem/hippy styles so a fairly standard suit trouser would work well. With trousers like these you can't really play with cut/style etc before they become very outlandish. The lawn doesn't have any stretch so I also needed to choose a style would let me move while wearing them (i.e. not skin tight). The pattern is Burda 04/2013 #103 Pleated Pants, which is actually the trouser complement to a jacket I made a while ago (version 1, version 2).

Unexpectedly, these have become a hit because they fit well under motorbike trousers, take up close to zero luggage space, are super comfy and can be thrown on over leggings after tap class. Like joggers/trackies. Except they're multicoloured. And they're actually dress trousers in disguise.

They're lined with a yellow cotton muslin (originally destined for another project) from Cloth House, The pocket lining is black/fuschia remnants from Misan Textiles. The fusible interfacing is from MacCulloch & Wallis. It's a veritable Soho party!



I dithered about making these for a long time because the fabric was expensive and it was so tough to see a a good result in my head. I was also wary of adornments and extras. It was important to strike the right balance of formality (darts not yokes, welt pockets not patch pockets, zip fly but with discreet buttons)  and flair, but the whole thing became quite daunting.

(Advance warning: I'm about to wax lyrical about tap again)

Sometimes daunting is a good thing, you need to stare the fear in the eye and make tiny steps towards the finishing line. Gradually it'll subside and you have will have won a battle. Sometimes you throw up your hands and say "not today", come back in 6 months. I've done that plenty of times in sewing - some things have gone well and some ended up as duds, but they were done and I was proud (or just relieved). I threw my hands up a couple of times on this project too, which is why they were finished in November and not March.

One of the most important parts of this kind of process - making, learning, challenging yourself and trying things - is to stop and say "wouldn't it be awesome if...". Or have someone to do it for you, who will make you do it anyway. I think these trousers are a means of paying respect to all the people - especially in the tap world - who are teachers, motivators, coaches, artists, athletes, enthusiasts and role models. They are major inspirations for me and for fellow sufferers of "Royally Screwing It Up 95% Of The Time" Syndrome. Without them saying things like "Next we're gonna do X, and you know what? It's gonna be awesome!" every 3 minutes in class, we wouldn't keep trying.

I'm working on it though, I try to wear these trousers as a reminder - the work you do between walking away from a challenge, and coming back to it 6 months later is important, don't forget it.

K x

Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Jerome.

Hellooo

Naming this project has been tough. It was going to be my Hooker Dress


Why hooker? Oh, just because of the: HANDMADE CROCHET DETAIL.

I got B to crochet a sampler we thought I could sew with, I thought its texture would look good on a very plain and smooth dress, so added it as a welt pocket. It's just the right size for stashing things!

Then it was going to be the Flight of Fancy Dress. I bet you're wondering why...



What's that on the back? Oh no sweat, it's only a TINY HAND-EMBROIDERED PAPER AREOPLANE

I kid you not. I whacked a paper aeroplane on there. It took all of 20 minutes to do, and now it looks awesome.

Then it was going to be the Mods & Bogs Dress. It's only just another modified Vogue V8766 you spy. Bog standard, repeat pattern mod dress. The pattern's been done, there's a zip in the side. I backstitched some green highlights around the neck and the hems. Dark blue cotton sateen from Goldhawk Road.

Then it could have been the Twinkling Moody Blue Dress because the lining is silk and MADE OF STARS from Mood fabrics.

Instead it is called Jerome.
Because while I may be short of a Robson trench coat, it's the absolute perfect dress to wear when you're tap dancing with B Up On The Roof.



No?

Take care!
K

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

A note on women's tailoring...

Sewing Artistry has been arguing a lot about good trouser fit for women recently. It made me wonder if proper tailoring (suits specifically) aren't really the most flattering dress option for women? Is the actual garment infrastructure not cut out ('scuse the pun) for a big proportion of women?

To put it simply, a jacket front on a guy must curve over his chest in a smooth way. Canvas and fusing give a long steady curve with a lot of structure, they seem to work well for that sort of shape. But on most women those curves are very exaggerated, and definitely not consistent. Can the structural elements of a tailored jacket really support work with/support/flatter a big shoulder/bust/hip ratio? What is a good fitting suit jacket for curvier women?

In any case, here's a recent project: Burda 04/2013 #113 Pencil Capris, lengthened to be ankle-ish length. Made for the office!

They're black trousers...whaddya want?
There was a bit of an adjustment to allow more space at the hip, though the fabric sags very easily which is a shame. I may yet take them apart to add more structure and possibly some belt loops.

The most interesting interesting point about these trousers? The button fly!

It's a button-fly!


See?

Of course you see
In essence, I was too cheap to buy a zip for a zipper fly so drafted a button fly for the CF seam. It took quite a lot of figuring out, but I basically copied PatternCutter206's tutorial for a hidden button placket and it seemed to work out quite well!

That's it for these, take care

K

Wednesday, 13 November 2013

Shorts...

I'm a big subscriber to the idea of enjoying the learning process. With sewing, this means relishing in some horrendous failures before slicing them up and arriving at a much better solution. This has applied recently (loose definition of recently) to my sewing of summer shorts.

Let's take a look at the first pair:
Uuuuh, I guess they look okay...

Wait, what?

Oh.
Bahahahahaha

After a previous post about deliberate pattern cutting, I totally messed up these shorts. The check is a very solid Alsatian Kelsch (linen) and the blue is the spongy linen from the Boomerang Dress. Bad cutting plan and with a lot of messing up. But hey...it's a new pattern and it looks like it fits. Surely that's good...

From this abomination, I immediately restarted the project, cut new fabric (actually leftovers from the Pinch Me Bag) and arrived at these:
Full length
Rolled up with cuffs
 Big hooray, the shorts feature an invisible zip in the side seam and flat felled seams throughout. I don't think I used an iron at all to press out seams, the fabric reacted really well to just being pressed out by hand. Definitely a surprise! But what's the bit I really love about these shorts?

Hint...
 Pockets! Actual welt pockets!

You know that odd feeling of victory where you've tried out a new skill or technique successfully? That's pretty amazing, but when it happens at 1.30am immediately after a failed project and many hours going loopy in front of the machine...well it has the potential to lead to a full-on meltdown. Trust me, when I finished these pockets and tried them out for the first time, I lost my mind. It looked a bit like this:


Just for proof's sake, you can see the pocket bags and facing. The Kelsch is a great facing because it doesn't stretch or give too much. Hopefully there's enough to be used as other facings!

If you're wondering why I'm even posting this now when we're well into November, it's largely because these shorts have been a gateway into a whole host of other projects since. They have have been a nice little milestone in the learning journey. Hopefully more to follow soon, I have bags of cool stuff to show you!