Monday, 7 March 2016

Newcastle Revisited

Many moons ago I made myself a Newcastle Cardigan which B has since pilfered for himself. Over time I've noticed some flaws I'd like to correct and B has mentioned that he'd like a more conservative version he can wear around town. Instead of developing a new pattern, I thought it'd be good to revisit the Newcastle and fix it up.

Thread Theory Newcastle Cardigan

My two major changes were to add a full lining and to switch the hem out for a band. I sized up to an M, lengthened slightly, used the small collar and shoulder yoke from the pattern. Overall, I think it looks great but it's a bit difficult to photograph accurately.

navy shawl collar jacket with tan contrasts

fluffy lining of a men's jacket
It's so fluffy!

Navy and tan lycra/spandex jersey: Plush Addict
Shaggy lining: Plush Addict
Sleeve Lining: Goldhawk Road
Interfacing and buttons: MacCulloch & Wallis

All the jersey innards are finished cleanly, behind the properly bagged lining. I switched up the construction order of the cuffs to make it easier to sew, and to look neater. The shaggy lining was a horror to work with - under the presser foot there was absolutely no problem, I overcast the raw edges as well for neatness. The cutting/handling was dreadful, it was like a fluffy infestation. I was cleaning grey fluff off myself and the flat for days after it was packed away. Even B was covered in the stuff, and this was a secret project!

shaggy plush fabric

Must keep a vacuum cleaner handy next time. A note about this shaggy stuff compared to regular minky/cuddlesoft fabric: you can't sweep it, it gets stuck in your eyes and is more prone to flyaway. I used regular minky/cuddlesoft for the red teddy bear in my earlier post and really enjoyed it. It still made a mess but it was pretty easy to handle.

Thread Theory Newcastle Cardigan

The buttons are beautiful and I have a few going spare, the fusible interfacing is exquisite. I got a MacCulloch & Wallis staff recommendation and am SO glad they know their stuff. I spent a long time fawning over their buttons as well - the plan is to go on a bit of a button spree in the near future. You might also be able to see the buttonholes in this picture - they were stitched in a very slightly lighter thread to give a bit of interest to the front.

If I make the Newcastle again, I may consider adding shoulder pads, as it can get quite heavy, and it may hang better off a man's shoulders. I'm not sure what to make of the fit. It seems fine enough, but the bodice may be too long. B has complained it's a bit too tight at the hips - so lengthening it was maybe a bad idea.

Incidentally, B is modelling this with some of his other Christmas presents - namely handmade gloves, hat and cowl from his sister, who is an absolute yarn virtuoso. These pieces are beautiful and expertly made

man sat by pond

Yes, the bag you see is my version of Simplicity 2358 from Christmas 2013.

That's about it, I hope B likes it and it sees a lot of good use.

man walking beside pond


Photos courtesy of Rachel Sheridan

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